Kickboards are the panels fitted to the base of kitchen cabinetry that conceal cabinet legs and create a clean, built-in look. Installing them is one of the final steps in your D.I.Y. kitchen renovation and can make a big difference to the overall finish. This step by step guide will walk you through how to measure, cut, fit and secure kickboards properly so they sit flush against your floor and align neatly with your cabinets.
Safety tip: Always wear the appropriate safety equipment (safety glasses, gloves, ear muffs and a mask, for example) and always follow the instructions for the product or equipment.
Start by measuring the length of each section where a kitchen kickboard will be installed. Use a tape measure and work from one cabinet end to the next, taking note of any corners or joins that may require a separate panel. This will give you the individual lengths needed for each section. Make sure to double-check your measurements to avoid cutting errors later on.
Once you’ve marked out the required lengths on the back of each kickboard panel, use a pencil to draw your cut lines clearly. Most kickboards will need to be trimmed to size, as they often come in standard lengths. Cut along your marked lines using a circular saw or drop saw, depending on what you have available.
Before installing your kickboards, check whether your floor is even. Use a tape measure to take vertical measurements from the bottom of the cabinet to the floor at roughly 200mm intervals along the length of the cabinet run. If you find any spots lower than 145mm, note these down as they’ll indicate where the kickboard needs to be trimmed to match the floor level.
Once you’ve gathered your floor height measurements, transfer any low-point readings to the back of the corresponding kickboard panel. Use a pencil to mark each spot, then connect the marks using a straightedge to create a clear, straight guideline. This line will serve as your reference for trimming the bottom edge of the kickboard to suit uneven flooring.
With your guideline drawn, clamp the kickboard securely to your workbench or a stable surface. Using a block plane or electric planer, carefully shave along the line to match the floor’s variation. If your floor surface changes a lot across the length of the cabinets, adjust the depth setting of your planer as you go to get a smooth and even finish. Taking your time with this step will help ensure the kickboard sits flat without gaps.
If your kickboard run is longer than a single panel, you’ll need to join multiple pieces together. To do this, use a small offcut of timber or spare kickboard as a backing brace. Position it behind the join, flush with the edges of the panels, and secure it using screws. This helps keep the sections aligned and stable while giving you a neat, continuous finish.
When placing your joined kickboard, aim to position the join beneath a cabinet section rather than in front of the cabinet feet. This keeps the backing brace hidden and ensures it doesn’t interfere with any support legs. A concealed join helps maintain a streamlined appearance across the full length of the kickboard.
With your panels ready, it’s time to position them for installation. Measure back 50mm from the front of your base cabinets as this is the standard setback for most kickboards. For pantry units, a setback of around 70mm is typically used. Push the kickboard into place, making sure it's properly aligned and flush along the cabinet run.
Once positioned, pre-drill through the kitchen cabinet base and into the kickboard to prevent splitting. Then secure it with 28mm screws. This ensures the kickboard remains straight and firmly attached.
For a polished and long-lasting result, especially in areas that get a lot of foot traffic, it’s a good idea to seal the bottom edge of the kickboard. Run a neat bead of silicone sealant along the joint where the kickboard meets the floor. Use a damp finger or a caulking tool to smooth it out. This not only gives the installation a professional finish but also helps prevent dust, crumbs and spills from collecting underneath.
Asbestos, lead-based paints and copper chromium arsenic (CCA) treated timber are health hazards you need to look out for when renovating older homes. These substances can easily be disturbed when renovating and exposure to them can cause a range of life-threatening diseases and conditions including cancer. For information on the dangers of asbestos, lead-based paint and CCA treated timber and tips for dealing with these materials contact your local council's Environmental Health Officer or visit our Health & Safety page.
When following our advice in our D.I.Y. videos, make sure you use all equipment, including PPE, safely by following the manufacturer’s instructions. Check that the equipment is suitable for the task and that PPE fits properly. If you are unsure, hire an expert to do the job or talk to a Bunnings Team Member.