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Easy in-store ReturnsHow to install and join cabinetry for an island bench
How to install and join cabinetry for an island bench
Steps
Plan your cabinetry spacing
Before you begin installation, consider how much space you’ll need to move freely around the island. A good guideline is to leave at least one metre of clearance on all sides. This ensures there's enough room for opening cupboards and drawers, and makes your kitchen more functional and user-friendly. Taking time to get this right will make a big difference once the kitchen island is in use.
Mark out your island layout
Once you're happy with the spacing, use masking tape to outline the position of your island directly on the floor. Include the cabinetry footprint as well as any planned benchtop overhangs. This tape outline acts as a visual guide, helping you double-check proportions and position before you start cutting timber or moving cabinets into place.
Cut the base support timber
Start by measuring the full length of the central section of your kitchen island layout, following the line you marked with masking tape. This measurement will guide the length of the timber you'll need for the base support. Using a circular saw, cut a length of 90x45mm pine timber to size. This piece will form the central structural spine that supports the weight and alignment of your cabinetry. It’s important to make sure your cut is straight and clean, as uneven ends can affect the accuracy of the layout. If your island is longer than a single length of timber, you can butt two pieces together, ensuring the join is tight and aligned. Just remember that any join in the base should also be supported with additional fixings or blocking underneath for added strength.
Fix the timber base to the floor
Lay the timber down along the centre of the marked outline on the floor. Take care to align it with your masking tape so it sits straight and centred within your planned layout. This accuracy will make a big difference when you begin installing your cabinets. Secure the timber in place by screwing it directly into the floor. Choose fixings that are suitable for your floor surface. For example, use timber screws for wooden floors, or masonry anchors if you’re working over tile or concrete. This anchored timber will form the spine of your internal support frame.
Cut small timber blocks as spacers
To begin building the raised platform for your cabinets, cut several small blocks from timber offcuts. These blocks will act as spacers between the base timber and the top rail, helping to lift the cabinet support surface to the correct height. Aim for consistent block sizes, and cut enough to space them evenly along the entire length of your base timber.
Screw the spacer blocks into position
Once your spacer blocks are cut, fix them along the base support timber at regular intervals - roughly every 400 to 500mm is ideal. Make sure each block is aligned straight and sits level across the run. Secure them firmly in place using screws so they provide strong and stable support for the top timber rail that will go on next.
Fix the top timber rail
Now cut a second length of 90 x 45mm pine timber to match the original base piece. This top rail will sit directly on the small spacer blocks you've just installed. Position it carefully so it runs parallel with the base timber and sits level across the full length. Screw the top rail onto each of the spacer blocks to fix it firmly in place. Once installed, the top rail should sit approximately 10mm lower than the finished height of your cabinetry. This intentional gap allows you to insert packers later, making it easier to fine-tune the level and flush alignment of each cabinet as you install them.
Place your cabinetry into position
Start by placing your first cabinet onto the support frame. Use a spirit level to check that it’s sitting flat and adjust the position if needed to ensure its level from front to back and side to side. Getting this first cabinet right is key, as it sets the alignment for the rest of the run.
Clamp and join the cabinets together
Once your first cabinet is level and in position, place the next cabinet directly beside it, ensuring the front edges line up evenly. Clamp the two cabinets tightly together to hold them steady while you work. Then, drill small pilot holes through the side panel of one cabinet into the side of the adjoining cabinet - position the holes close to the front and back edges for a strong, stable join. Fix the cabinets together using 28mm screws, taking care not to overtighten. Continue this process for any additional cabinets in the run, checking each time that they sit flush and level before securing.
Measure and mark for screw placement
Start by measuring the distance from the front edge of each cabinet to the timber support frame underneath. Then, transfer that measurement to the inside base of the cabinet. This marking will guide you when it's time to screw the cabinet down, ensuring you hit the timber frame directly.
Pack and fix the cabinets to the support frame
Before securing the cabinet, check for any gap between its base and the timber support frame. If there’s a gap, slide in packers to fill the space. This ensures the cabinet sits snug and level. Once everything is aligned, screw through the inside base of the cabinet into the timber frame beneath. Make sure each screw is straight and firmly anchored to provide a secure hold. Repeat this process for every cabinet in your island.
Add strength by securing the feet
Give each adjustable foot a small twist to raise it slightly off the floor. Apply a dab of silicone sealant underneath each foot, then lower them back down into place. This bonds the feet to the floor and adds extra stability to the structure.
Finish with end and back panels
To complete the installation, attach an end panel to the exposed side of the final cabinet. Then fix a back panel along the rear of the entire cabinet run. These panels give the island bench a clean, built-in look and conceal any raw edges or joins from view.
Now that you’ve installed and joined cabinetry for an island bench
More D.I.Y. Advice
Health & Safety
Asbestos, lead-based paints and copper chromium arsenic (CCA) treated timber are health hazards you need to look out for when renovating older homes. These substances can easily be disturbed when renovating and exposure to them can cause a range of life-threatening diseases and conditions including cancer. For information on the dangers of asbestos, lead-based paint and CCA treated timber and tips for dealing with these materials contact your local council's Environmental Health Officer or visit our Health & Safety page.
When following our advice in our D.I.Y. videos, make sure you use all equipment, including PPE, safely by following the manufacturer’s instructions. Check that the equipment is suitable for the task and that PPE fits properly. If you are unsure, hire an expert to do the job or talk to a Bunnings Team Member.