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DIY - Header - D.I.Y. brick planter box

Overview

Breathe new life into your outdoors with a brick planter box. It's a great way to brighten up any bare areas with colourful plants and flowers. And being made of brick it'll stand the test of time, and become a permanent landscaping feature you'll be proud of for years to come.

Steps

1Make the ground level

Before you start, make sure the ground is level. Use a shovel to dig out the area. Then, use the level to make sure it's flat. We're laying our bricks on compacted road base and don't need to lay a base or footings for the planter. But if you were building your planter box higher, and didn't have road base, you might need to lay a foundation and footings before laying the bricks.

A person leveling the ground next to a house wall using a spade

2Measure the size of the planter box

We're making our planter box two bricks wide with a 10mm gap for the mortar, so it's 490mm wide and 1825mm long. Lay the two bricks that'll make up one side of the planter box, into place. Hammer in a peg next to them. Measure 490mm out from where the other side of the planter box is, then hammer in a peg. Run a string line between the pegs to mark where to lay the bricks.

A person measuring two bricks laid at right angles to a house wall

3Mix the mortar

You can use a wheelbarrow or a mixer to make the mortar. It's important to follow the instructions on the cement bag. Be careful not to add too much water. The ideal mortar mix should have a firm consistency. To check for the ideal consistency, hold the trowel upside down with mortar on it, a thin layer of the mortar should stay on the trowel.

A person spraying water into a concrete mixer

4Lay the first bricks

Lay a bed of mortar on the ground, about 25mm thick. Embed the first brick into the mortar. Apply 10mm of mortar at one end of the second brick and place it next to the first. Check to see that the two bricks are level and straight. Wipe off any excess mortar as you go. Repeat this step for the other side. Then check that the two sides are level with each other. Adjust your string line, so that it's in line with the bricks.

A person laying a line of mortar on the ground at right angles to a house wall

5Lay the front bricks for the planter box

Repeat the above steps to lay the first course. First, lay down a bed of mortar on the ground. Apply mortar to one end of the brick and lay it next to the side wall. Tap it down with the trowel so that it's the same height as the string line. Repeat this to lay the other bricks. It's important that the first course is level and straight. It'll make laying the other courses much easier.

A person laying a row of bricks parallel to  a house wall following a string line

6Cut a brick in half

We're laying our bricks in a half bond, which means the underlying brick is covered by a brick to the halfway mark. To cut the brick, measure and mark the halfway point. Use the hammer and bolster to cut the brick in half.

A brick that has been cut in half

7Lay the second course of bricks

Once the brick is cut, continue to lay the bricks, starting with the half brick being laid closest to the wall. Follow the pattern of embedding the brick in mortar and butter each end. Make sure the bricks remain level and straight.

Quick tip to butter a brick: don't have too much mortar on the end of the trowel. Gently place the mortar on one side, then the other, and push it down so that it covers the full end surface of the brick.

A person laying a second course of bricks parallel to a house wall

8Lay the third course of bricks

Once the corners of the first course of bricks are in place, you can use purpose-built corner blocks to hold the string line in place. Continue laying until you have laid three courses of bricks.

A person laying a third course of bricks parallel to a house wall

9Wipe away excess mortar

While the mortar's still wet, use a damp sponge to wipe away any excess mortar and to smooth out the joints. 

Person wiping excess mortar from a brick planter box

10Lay a concrete cap

Once you've laid the brick planter box, finish the top off with a concrete cap. Use the same process to lay the cap that you used with the bricks. Apply mortar to the base and between each end of the cap. Use a rubber mallet to gently tap the capping stones into place. Leave the planter box to fully cure. This could take up to seven days.

A person using a mallet to tap concrete capping blocks into position

11Paint the concrete cap

You can leave the concrete cap natural or paint it. We painted ours so that it matches the colour scheme of the house.

A brick planter box planted with flowering plants against a house wall

12Waterproof the planter box

If you're going to be filling the planter box with soil you will need to waterproof the bricks. Wait at least seven days for the mortar to dry before applying a bitumen based paint to the bricks.

A brick planter box planted with flowering plants against a house wall

13Blooming marvellous

Now that you've finished your planter box, all you have to do is add some colour with flowers and plants. As the seasons change you can change what you grow in the planter box, knowing that you built it to last.
Health & Safety

Asbestos, lead-based paints and copper chromium arsenic (CCA) treated timber are health hazards you need to look out for when renovating older homes. These substances can easily be disturbed when renovating and exposure to them can cause a range of life-threatening diseases and conditions including cancer. For information on the dangers of asbestos, lead-based paint and CCA treated timber and tips for dealing with these materials contact your local council's Environmental Health Officer or visit our Health & Safety page.

When following our advice in our D.I.Y. videos, make sure you use all equipment, including PPE, safely by following the manufacturer’s instructions. Check that the equipment is suitable for the task and that PPE fits properly. If you are unsure, hire an expert to do the job or talk to a Bunnings Team Member.