D.I.Y. pallet hall table

Errol, Team member
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D.I.Y. pallet hall table

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Project Overview

It’s amazing what you can do with a few boards from an old pallet and some timber. You’ll love the uniqueness of this wooden hall table. It’s really easy to make and its recycled, rustic style will add character to any room in your home. Continue to step-by-step instructions
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How to remove difficult screws

Sometimes tight or rusted screws just won’t come out. To fix this problem, pour some white vinegar into a small bowl and use an eyedropper to drip some on the head of the screw. Wait for several minutes while the vinegar flows down over the thread. Take your screwdriver and give it another go and you’ll be amazed at just how easily the screw comes out.

Step by Step Instructions

1 Make the first angle cut on a leg
2 Measure and mark the taper for the legs
3 Cut the legs
4 Measure and mark the slats
5 Cut the slats
6 Lay out the slats
7 Cut the ply to size
8 Measure and mark for the legs
9 Attach the legs
10 Secure the slats
11 Trim the edges
12 Measure and mark for the longer sides
13 Cut the border for the longer sides to size
14 Fix the longer sides to the table
15 Measure the width of the table
16 Measure and mark for the shelf
17 Cut the shelf to size
18 Attach the shelf
19 Putty up any holes
20 Sand the table
21 Wax the table
22 Put your table into position
  • Step 1. Make the first angle cut on a leg

    Your table will need splayed legs to give it extra stability. To do this, cut the ends off your timber length with the drop saw set at a 5-degree angle. Then mark and measure 700mm along the timber. At your marking, make another cut at the 5-degree angle with your drop saw. You’ll need to do this for all four table legs.
  • Step 2. Measure and mark the taper for the legs

    Turn each timber length over so they’re sitting on their 90mm side. At one end measure and mark at 85mm, which is the widest part that will attach to the table, and on the bottom of the length, measure and mark at 50mm. Draw a straight line between these points on each leg.
  • Step 3. Cut the legs

    With your safety equipment on, use the circular saw to cut the taper on the four legs.
  • Step 4. Measure and mark the slats

    For this project, we’re using timber slats from a pallet as the top of the hall table. Measure and mark the slats between the pallet frame. We used 16 slats, which were 360mm long, and this will be the width of the table.
  • Step 5. Cut the slats

    Before you start, check that there are no nails in the pallet where you’re cutting. Then cut the slats out of the pallet to size with a circular saw.
  • Step 6. Lay out the slats

    Lay out the slats onto the ply for your table top. The 16 slats we used measured 360mm x 1200mm long. This will also be the dimensions for your table. Once you’ve laid out the slats on the ply base, mark on the ply where to trim it.
  • Step 7. Cut the ply to size

    Clamp the ply to the work bench and use the circular saw to cut the ply to size. You might need someone to hold the ply while you cut.
  • Step 8. Measure and mark for the legs

    Measure and mark the positions of the table legs on the ply. Our four legs were attached 150mm from the end of the inside of the leg and 50mm from the side. Using a level at the base of the splayed leg will help ensure it sits inside the table top and doesn’t splay further than the top.
  • Step 9. Attach the legs

    Pre-drill holes with a 3mm drill bit in the ply to attach the legs. This will make it easier to line up your legs before screwing. Use the 50mm timber screws to attach the legs. Screw from the top of the ply into each leg. To make this step easier, you will need someone to hold the legs while you attach them.
  • Step 10. Secure the slats

    Before attaching the slats, try mixing and matching the light and dark lengths until you’re happy with their pattern. Then make sure you remove them in order, then apply liquid nails to the ply and lay the slats on top in the same order. Use the fixing gun to secure the slats into place.
  • Step 11. Trim the edges

    Once the slats are attached, it’s time to trim the edges to make the table straight. Use a pencil and straight edge to mark a cutting line along both edges and trim them with the circular saw.
  • Step 12. Measure and mark for the longer sides

    Measure the length of the table. Transfer this measurement onto the timber you are using for the border frame.
  • Step 13. Cut the border for the longer sides to size

    Set the drop saw at 45 degrees. For both longer sides of the table, mitre one end of each timber length, then measure from short point to short point before cutting the other mitre.
  • Step 14. Fix the longer sides to the table

    Place the timber for the frame so that it sits as flush as possible to the lowest of the slats. Start at one end and use the fixing gun to attach the frame along the lengths. Make sure the table is kept straight to reduce bowing.
  • Step 15. Measure the width of the table

    Once both sides are attached, measure and mark the timber for the shorter sides. To do this, measure from short end to long end. Set the drop saw to 45-degrees. Cut them to size and nail them in place.
  • Step 16. Measure and mark for the shelf

    Adding a shelf to your table will give you some storage space as well as more stability. We’re using a laminated hardwood panel for our shelf. At the height that you want the shelf, measure the distance between the legs.
  • Step 17. Cut the shelf to size

    For our shelf, it will need mitred edges to match the splayed legs. Rip and cut the hardwood to your measurements using a circular saw. Then cut the mitres using the drop saw.
  • Step 18. Attach the shelf

    Use the 3mm drill bit to pre-drill the holes to secure the shelf. Then use 65mm screws to secure the shelf. A good tip is to use timber off-cuts and clamp them to the legs to make sure the shelf is level.
  • Step 19. Putty up any holes

    Use some putty and a putty knife to fill any holes or cracks in the table. Let the putty dry.
  • Step 20. Sand the table

    For a great finish for your table, you’ll need to give it a good sand. Start with a belt sander and a 40 grit belt and then an 80 grit belt to sand the top of the table. Make sure to follow the grain of the timber when you’re sanding. Then use an orbital sander on the legs and shelf with an 80 grit pad and then 240 grit sandpaper to finish it off. Wipe away any dust.
  • Step 21. Wax the table

    To finish off the table you can paint, varnish or wax it. We used a natural wax to protect the table and bring out the natural grain of the timber. Apply as many coats as necessary. For our table, we applied two coats.
  • Step 22. Put your table into position

    Now you can move the table into place once its dry. The pallet slats with their different coloured timber makes this hall table unique and a great addition to your home.

Tools and Materials


  • Belt sander
  • Caulking gun
  • Circular saw
  • Chisel
  • Cordless drill
  • Combination square
  • Compound mitre saw
  • Dust mask
  • Earmuffs
  • Fixing gun and 40mm brads
  • Gloves
  • Hammer
  • Impact driver
  • Measuring tape
  • Orbital sander
  • Pencil
  • Pry bar
  • Putty knife
  • Quick clamps
  • Safety glasses
  • Spirit level
  • Straight-edge clamp
  • Utility knife


  • 26mm x 180mm x 600mm laminated hardwood panel
  • 1200mm x 596mm x 18mm plywood
  • 90mm x 45mm x 2.4m Tasmanian oak x 2
  • 65mm x 19mm x 2.4m Tasmanian oak x 2
  • 65mm timber screws
  • 50mm timber screws
  • Liquid nails
  • Old pallet
  • Putty
  • Rags
  • 240 grit sandpaper
  • Wax

Health & Safety

Please make sure you use all equipment appropriately and safely when following the advice in these D.I.Y. videos. You need to be familiar with how to use equipment safely and follow the instructions that came with the equipment. If you are unsure, you may feel it is safest to consult an expert, such as the manufacturer or an expert Bunnings Team Member.

Grave health hazards are linked to asbestos, which may be in homes built up to 1990. Health hazards may result from exposure to lead-based paints in older materials and copper chromium arsenic (CCA) treated timber. For information on the dangers of asbestos, lead-based paint and CCA treated timber and tips for dealing with these materials contact your local council's Environmental Health Officer or visit our Health & Safety page. You can also use a simple test kit from Bunnings to indicate the presence of lead-based paint.
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