To make this project easier, we had most of the Tasmanian oak cut to size at Bunnings. Here's our cut list:
Cut the 65mm x 19mm oak to the following lengths:
Cut the 42mm x 19mm Tasmanian oak to the following lengths:
Place one of the 1162mm x 42mm x 19mm pieces of Tasmanian oak on top of a 65mm x 19mm 1200mm length of timber. Make sure you leave room for the slats on the top and the side rails to finish flush. Join the timber with the fixing nails. Repeat for the other side.
Lay out the timber for the frame, starting with the 410mm lengths for the side pieces. Secure the timber using clamps, making sure the edges are flush. Then fix the frame together with the nail gun.
Using one of the slats as a spacer, evenly place the slats along the framework. Fix the slats with a nail gun using 32mm nails. If the final slats are slightly out, you can make small adjustments by repositioning the slats into an even space before fixing off. Repeat the above steps to build the second shelf.
Putty up the nail holes. Allow to dry before giving it a light sand with the orbital sander using 120 grit sandpaper. Complete it by hand sanding the frame with a 240 grit sandpaper and block.
To paint the shelves, ensure you are in a well-ventilated area and wearing a respirator. Apply an undercoat first, spraying back and forth in an even motion across the frame. Once that has dried, apply the top coat colour of your choice.
Using a pre-cut 500mm timber leg, position one alongside the frame. Use a combination square to ensure it is flush with the top of the frame, then clamp into position and pre-drill using a 3mm drill bit. Set your countersink slightly deeper than the screw head and drill the countersink. Fix off using a Phillips head bit with two 50mm galvanised screws closest to the corner and 30mm galvanised screws on the other side. Repeat the same process for the remaining three legs.
Slot your bottom shelf in 120mm from the ground to the bottom of your lower shelf, mark its position using a combination square and pencil. Use the clamps to secure the framework. Use the same process to attach your lower shelf as you did to attach the legs.
Position the inserts against the framework between the top legs on the side. Attach them using the nail gun. Repeat for the bottom shelf.
To complete the look of your shelves, apply putty using a putty knife into all the visible screw and nail holes. Once the putty is dry, use an orbital sander with a 120 grit disc to smooth the putty.
To finish off your slatted shelf unit, apply a coat of varnish with a paintbrush.
The job is done and your slatted shelf unit looks fantastic. Now all you have to do is decide where to put it and what to display on it!
Asbestos, lead-based paints and copper chromium arsenic (CCA) treated timber are health hazards you need to look out for when renovating older homes. These substances can easily be disturbed when renovating and exposure to them can cause a range of life-threatening diseases and conditions including cancer. For information on the dangers of asbestos, lead-based paint and CCA treated timber and tips for dealing with these materials contact your local council's Environmental Health Officer or visit our Health & Safety page.
When following our advice in our D.I.Y. videos, make sure you use all equipment, including PPE, safely by following the manufacturer’s instructions. Check that the equipment is suitable for the task and that PPE fits properly. If you are unsure, hire an expert to do the job or talk to a Bunnings Team Member.