Sutton Tools 3mm Supabit Impact Drill Bit
To create the base for your coat rack, apply glue along one of the long edges of the 270mm hardwood timber. Then join the two pieces together, making sure the end and corners are flush. Clamp them together and then let it dry.
Run some glue along the face of one of the 1800mm Tasmanian oak hardwood lengths. Then stick and clamp the two 1800mm lengths together, making sure the edges are flush.
After the glue has dried on the stand and the base, use a wide, sharp chisel to remove any dried glue from the wood.
Next you'll need to square up the base. Measure and mark up making sure you keep the glued pieces in the centre of the base for a great look. Our base measured 280mm x 280mm.
Clamp the base to the workbench and use the circular saw to cut it where you've marked.
To find the centre of the base that you've cut, use a T-square and pencil and make a mark. From that, draw a small square around the centre and mark an X in each corner of this square.
Drill four holes where you've marked in the base with an X using a 5mm drill bit. This is where you will attach the base to the stand.
We want our stand to be 1755mm high. Measure and mark this length onto your glued timber stand.
With your timber clamped down, trim the end of the stand with a drop saw to size.
For our stand, we wanted to create a tree look with three staggered dowel lengths on each face. From the top of each face, we marked at;
Face 1: 50mm, 250mm, 450mm
Face 2: 100mm, 200mm, 300mm
Face 3: 150mm, 350mm, 550mm
Face 4: 200mm, 400mm, 600mm
Square off a line at each mark across the timber and then mark a 45-degree angle on the side.
Pre-drill all of the holes for the dowel at the 45-degree angle with the 5mm drill bit. This will act as a guide for the spade bit.
Use the 35mm spade bit to drill the holes for the dowel. Start drilling at 90 degrees, then as the blade starts cutting at its full width, start to tilt the drill until you're at 45 degrees. Drill the holes to a depth of around 50mm.
Use rapid fill to fill in any cracks or imperfections on the stand. Let it dry then sand the stand back with the orbital sander.
We painted our stand black to highlight the natural colour of the dowel, but you can choose whatever colour you like. Then let the paint dry.
Line the base up with the bottom of the stand so that it's centred. Then with the 5mm drill bit, lightly drill through the holes you've made in the base into the bottom of the stand for your marker points. Remove the base and drill further into the stand to make your holes.
Insert the batten screws through the drilled holes in the base. Line the screws up with the pre-drilled holes in the stand and screw the base to the stand with 100mm batten screws.
For your coat hooks, measure and mark out on your dowel 4 x 300mm lengths, 4 x 200mm lengths and 4 x 100mm lengths.
Use the drop saw to cut the dowel where you've marked. Cut one end at 90 degrees and mitre the other end at 45 degrees.
Use 180 grit sandpaper to lightly sand the rough edges of each piece of dowel.
Find a location for your coat rack and you're finished. Now it's time to dress it with coats, scarves and clean up around your home.
Asbestos, lead-based paints and copper chromium arsenic (CCA) treated timber are health hazards you need to look out for when renovating older homes. These substances can easily be disturbed when renovating and exposure to them can cause a range of life-threatening diseases and conditions including cancer. For information on the dangers of asbestos, lead-based paint and CCA treated timber and tips for dealing with these materials contact your local council's Environmental Health Officer or visit our Health & Safety page.
When following our advice in our D.I.Y. videos, make sure you use all equipment, including PPE, safely by following the manufacturer’s instructions. Check that the equipment is suitable for the task and that PPE fits properly. If you are unsure, hire an expert to do the job or talk to a Bunnings Team Member.