Skip to main content
Bunnings

Sign in or sign up

No Bunnings account? Sign up
or
PowerPass customer?
Visit the dedicated trade website

Project list

Sign in to your account

Our Price Guarantee

D.I.Y. pallet hall table

A narrow table of recycled timber with candles, magazines and a framed print

Overview

It's amazing what you can do with a few boards from an old pallet and some timber. You'll love the uniqueness of this wooden hall table. It's really easy to make and its recycled, rustic style will add character to any room in your home.

Steps

1Make the first angle cut on a leg

Your table will need splayed legs to give it extra stability. To do this, cut the ends off your timber length with the drop saw set at a 5-degree angle. Then mark and measure 700mm along the timber. At your marking, make another cut at the 5-degree angle with your drop saw. You'll need to do this for all four table legs.
Person cutting timber using drop saw

2Measure and mark the taper for the legs

Turn each timber length over so they're sitting on their 90mm side. At one end measure and mark at 85mm, which is the widest part that will attach to the table, and on the bottom of the length, measure and mark at 50mm. Draw a straight line between these points on each leg.
Person marking timber using pencil and spirit level

3Cut the legs

With your safety equipment on, use the circular saw to cut the taper on the four legs.
Person using circular saw to cut timber

4Measure and mark the slats

For this project, we're using timber slats from a pallet as the top of the hall table. Measure and mark the slats between the pallet frame. We used 16 slats, which were 360mm long, and this will be the width of the table.
Person measuring and marking timber slats with tape measure and pencil

5Cut the slats

Before you start, check that there are no nails in the pallet where you're cutting. Then cut the slats out of the pallet to size with a circular saw.
Person cutting timber slats with circular saw

6Lay out the slats

Lay out the slats onto the ply for your table top. The 16 slats we used measured 360mm x 1200mm long. This will also be the dimensions for your table. Once you've laid out the slats on the ply base, mark on the ply where to trim it.
Person laying out timber slats on a workbench

7Cut the ply to size

Clamp the ply to the work bench and use the circular saw to cut the ply to size. You might need someone to hold the ply while you cut.
Person cutting ply with circular saw

8Measure and mark for the legs

Measure and mark the positions of the table legs on the ply. Our four legs were attached 150mm from the end of the inside of the leg and 50mm from the side. Using a level at the base of the splayed leg will help ensure it sits inside the table top and doesn't splay further than the top.
Person measuring and marking ply panel with tape measure and pencil

9Attach the legs

Pre-drill holes with a 3mm drill bit in the ply to attach the legs. This will make it easier to line up your legs before screwing. Use the 50mm timber screws to attach the legs. Screw from the top of the ply into each leg. To make this step easier, you will need someone to hold the legs while you attach them.
Person drilling timber legs onto ply panel

10Secure the slats

Before attaching the slats, try mixing and matching the light and dark lengths until you're happy with their pattern. Then make sure you remove them in order, then apply liquid nails to the ply and lay the slats on top in the same order. Use the fixing gun to secure the slats into place.
Person laying out timber slats on a workbench

11Trim the edges

Once the slats are attached, it's time to trim the edges to make the table straight. Use a pencil and straight edge to mark a cutting line along both edges and trim them with the circular saw.
Person trimming edges from timber slats with a circular saw

12Measure and mark for the longer sides

Measure the length of the table. Transfer this measurement onto the timber you are using for the border frame.
Person measuring the length of a table with a tape measure

13Cut the border for the longer sides to size

Set the drop saw at 45 degrees. For both longer sides of the table, mitre one end of each timber length, then measure from short point to short point before cutting the other mitre.
Person using drop saw to cut piece of timber

14Fix the longer sides to the table

Place the timber for the frame so that it sits as flush as possible to the lowest of the slats. Start at one end and use the fixing gun to attach the frame along the lengths. Make sure the table is kept straight to reduce bowing.
Person using nail gun to nail table sides to tabletop

15Measure the width of the table

Once both sides are attached, measure and mark the timber for the shorter sides. To do this, measure from short end to long end. Set the drop saw to 45-degrees. Cut them to size and nail them in place.
Person measuring width of tabletop

16Measure and mark for the shelf

Adding a shelf to your table will give you some storage space as well as more stability. We're using a laminated hardwood panel for our shelf. At the height that you want the shelf, measure the distance between the legs.
Person measuring length of table leg

17Cut the shelf to size

For our shelf, it will need mitred edges to match the splayed legs. Rip and cut the hardwood to your measurements using a circular saw. Then cut the mitres using the drop saw.
Person using circular saw to cut hardwood

18Attach the shelf

Use the 3mm drill bit to pre-drill the holes to secure the shelf. Then use 65mm screws to secure the shelf. A good tip is to use timber off-cuts and clamp them to the legs to make sure the shelf is level.
Person drilling shelf into table

19Putty up any holes

Use some putty and a putty knife to fill any holes or cracks in the table. Let the putty dry.
Person apply putty to cover nail holes

20Sand the table

For a great finish for your table, you'll need to give it a good sand. Start with a belt sander and a 40 grit belt and then an 80 grit belt to sand the top of the table. Make sure to follow the grain of the timber when you're sanding. Then use an orbital sander on the legs and shelf with an 80 grit pad and then 240 grit sandpaper to finish it off. Wipe away any dust.
Person sanding table using sander

21Wax the table

To finish off the table you can paint, varnish or wax it. We used a natural wax to protect the table and bring out the natural grain of the timber. Apply as many coats as necessary. For our table, we applied two coats.
Person waxing the table

22Put your table into position

Now you can move the table into place once its dry. The pallet slats with their different coloured timber makes this hall table unique and a great addition to your home.
Complete D.I.Y. table in hallway with candle, lamp and framed picture

Inspiration from the Bunnings Workshop community

Herringbone pallet console table

Workshop member Rylie built this herringbone console table using recycled pallets and finished the industrial look off with steel hairpin legs.

View project
A timber hallway table with a mirror and storage baskets

Suggested products

Health & Safety

Asbestos, lead-based paints and copper chromium arsenic (CCA) treated timber are health hazards you need to look out for when renovating older homes. These substances can easily be disturbed when renovating and exposure to them can cause a range of life-threatening diseases and conditions including cancer. For information on the dangers of asbestos, lead-based paint and CCA treated timber and tips for dealing with these materials contact your local council's Environmental Health Officer or visit our Health & Safety page.

When following our advice in our D.I.Y. videos, make sure you use all equipment, including PPE, safely by following the manufacturer’s instructions. Check that the equipment is suitable for the task and that PPE fits properly. If you are unsure, hire an expert to do the job or talk to a Bunnings Team Member.