D.I.Y. kids framed bed with headboard

You can make the bed whatever size you like. One way to make this D.I.Y. project even easier is to have most of your timber pre-cut at your local Bunnings. For this project, we cut our 70mm x 35mm x 2.4m form ply into the following lengths:

• 2150mm x 2 (sides)
• 945mm x 2 (ends)
• 945mm x 26 (slats)

We then cut our 185mm x 20mm hardwood into:

• 2190mm x 2 (sides)
• 980mm x 1 (ends)

The next step is to cut the 110mm x 20mm hardwood into the following lengths:

• 640mm x 2 (bedhead frame)
• 945mm x 2 (bedhead frame)

• 858mm x 2 (outer frame)
• 983mm x 1 (outer frame) 

Finally, for the legs, we cut our 90mm x 45mm Tasmanian oak dowel into:

• 300mm x 4

The first thing to do is lay out the timber for the bed's support frame, it's best to do this on the floor. To make the rectangular outer frame use the two 2150mm lengths and two of the 945mm slats of structural pine. The two end pieces need to be on their sides.

Once you've laid out the slats, use the 2mm drill bit to pre-drill the holes. Fix the slats to the frame using the 65mm bugle screws. Use two on each slat. Remember to use a spare slat as a spacer.

We want the legs to be cut at a 15-degree angle at both ends. Set the mitre saw to 15 degrees and cut the first end. Then cut the other at a length longer than you want the legs to be, this is so the wood can be clamped when you cut it later.

Now it's time to mark out the 0-45mm taper on the legs. To do this measure from 0-45 along the length of the timber. Measure the timber at base, 45mm in from the edge. Draw a straight line to the top of the timber

Clamp the wood to the workbench, then use the circular saw to cut the wood. Next, make the other 15-degree cut at the other end of the foot with the mitre saw. That's one leg done. Repeat steps 5, 6 and 7 to make the three other legs.

Place the leg on the underside of the bed so that the foot is flat on the floor. The tapered edge of the foot should face outwards and one edge should sit flush to the frame. Pre-drill two holes using the 2mm drill bit before securing the foot with 50mm screws. Drill the screws on an angle for maximum strength. Turn the bed over and then screw through the top of the slat into the leg.  Repeat this for the three other legs.

Measure the length of your pine mattress frame. Deduct 110mm from this. The 110mm gap will be where the bedhead will be attached. Transfer these measurements onto the timber for the side frames of the bed.

Use the mitre saw to make a 45-degree cut at the end of the long length of timber. Cut the other end to length at 90 degrees, which will be joined to the bedhead with a butt joint. Repeat this for the other long length. 

Measure the width of the support frame at the end of the bed. Transfer these measurements onto your timber.

Clamp the timber to the workbench. Use the mitre saw to cut the ends of the timber at 45-degree angles.

Measure and mark 50mm from the top edge of the timber frames to create a lip. Fix the end frame to the bed using the nail gun, making sure it's flush with the ends. Repeat this for the side frames of the bed. Make sure the timber is square before attaching.

Measure the width of the bed. Ours measured 945mm along the top and bottom of the frame. Transfer these measurements onto the timber. Then, measure the height you want your bedhead to be and transfer these onto the pieces of timber.

Clamp the wood to the workbench and cut the four pieces of wood for the outer frame at 45-degree angles.

Take one of the 945mm timber pieces and run a straight pencil line lengthways through the centre of the board. Repeat this on the other piece of timber. These pieces of timber will be the top and bottom of your inner frame. 

Measure and mark along the centre line on the timber for the dowels. These need to be equally spaced. From the left-hand end, ours fell at 113mm increments. Transfer the measurements onto the other piece of timber, making sure they're exact. It's important to remember that for safety reasons, the space between the dowel cannot be more than 125mm. The measurements are outlined in the Australian Standards of Construction. Check the standards applicable to your area before making the bedhead. 

Clamp the timber to the workbench with two pieces of offcut underneath it. This will stop you drilling into the workbench. Hold the drill at 90-degrees, place the spade bit on the mark and drill halfway into the piece of timber. Repeat this to drill all of the holes in the two pieces of timber.

Measure, mark and cut the seven pieces of dowel for the bedhead. Ours measured 625mm.

Place the seven pieces of dowel into one side of the inner frame. Use the nail gun to secure them. Repeat this to join the dowel to the other frame.

Use the nail gun to fix the two sides of the inner frame at the top and bottom. Make sure the mitre joints are flush before fixing them.

Mark and measure the lengths for the three pieces of timber for your outer frame. Our top piece was 983mm long and the two sides 858mm. 

Clamp the timber in place. Use the mitre saw to cut the ends that will join at the top of the bedhead at 45-degree angles. Cut the ends of the side pieces of timber at 90 degrees.

Place the top piece of the outer frame in place, making sure its edges are flush. Use the nail gun to attach it to the inner frame. Repeat this for the two side pieces of the outer frame.

Put the bedhead in place at the end of the bed. Pre-drill holes with the 2mm drill bit. Then fix the bedhead with the 65mm bugle screws. 

Depending on the look you want you can paint or stain your bed. We've applied several coats of Cabothane Clear, lightly sanding between each coat. We also painted the dowel white to give it a crisp clean look. Then all you have to do is add the mattress and bedding.