Skip to main content
Bunnings Warehouse

How to make a clever D.I.Y. bin screen

By Bunnings magazine /

Three door bin screen with shovel in front of half-opened one bin screen and bicycle on other side. 

Overview

Create a well-ventilated bin stable by making a box-like frame and cladding it in fence panels. This D.I.Y. design features three hinged doors on the front and a lid supported by gas struts for easy access. The end result will house three large wheelie bins, with the finished structure 2210mm wide, 915mm deep and 1260mm high. However, it can be modified for other equipment, too. To screen outdoor objects that don’t need moving but still require access (such as pool pumps or hot water systems), tweak this design by replacing the doors or lid with fixed panels – just work out the dimensions around the original 600mm panel width to keep the slats intact. All you need to finish things off are coats of an oil-based primer and exterior paint to suit your colour scheme. (We chose white for a coastal look.)

Tip: We painted the panels but, for a natural finish, swap primed H3-treated pine for Merbau screening in similar sizes and stain the pine frame inside to match.

Safety tip: Always wear the appropriate safety equipment (safety glasses, ear muffs, gloves and a mask, for example) and always follow the instructions for the product or equipment.

Steps

  1. 1

    Cutting list

    • Using a mitre saw, from five 6m lengths of 70mm x 35mm H3-treated pine, cut one 2180mm and two 2140mm rails, eight 1220mm stiles (vertical pieces), 12 rails 830mm long, and three 621.5mm spacers.
    • From three 2.7m lengths of 42mm x 18mm primed H3- treated pine, cut a 2180mm support rail, 12 infills 235mm long and two 310mm end cover pieces.
    • From two 2.7m lengths of 66mm x 18mm primed H3-treated pine, cut two 2120mm and two 280mm lid supports.
  2. 2

    Construct the centre frames

    Assemble two centre frames with the stiles (vertical pieces) against the top and base rails, and the middle rails centred sideways. Assemble two end frames with the base and centre rails sideways, flush with one side. Pre-drill with a 5mm bit, securing each join with two 50mm batten screws.

    Person attaching a centre rail to a wooden frame with a drill.
  3. 3

    Cut the doors

    Set a circular saw blade to 20mm deep, cutting the panel stiles using a rafter square as a straight edge. Cut three doors of 26 slats, two side panels of 27 slats, and four with seven slats to position vertically.

    Green Bunnings hammer
    Tip: Raise the saw guard to position the saw before each cut and wait for the blade to stop before removing it.
    Person measuring wooden slats with a rafter square while sawing.
  4. 4

    Secure the side panels

    Position the side panels on the end frames, flush with the front. Position two infills each at the top and base, clamping to pre-drill with an 8G countersinking bit, securing with 50mm decking screws. Cover the rest of each end frame with vertical panels, countersinking between the slats and securing with decking screws.

    Person attaching wooden side panels to frames with a drill.
  5. 5

    Attach the rails

    Set out the frames using the spacers. At the back, position a 2140mm rail along the inside base, securing with batten screws. Secure the other 2140mm rail through the centre, and the 2180mm rail along the top, in-line with the vertical panels. Attach the 2180mm support rail along the back, securing with 30mm screws.

    Wooden frames attached to rails.
  6. 6

    Construct the lid

    Trim a panel offcut to nine slats long, positioning it upside-down, end-to-end with a full panel. Position the 2120mm lid supports inside the stiles and to reinforce the join, securing into the slats with 20mm button screws. Secure infills to the ends with 30mm screws.

    Wooden slatted panel with lid supports screwed inside the stiles.
  7. 7

    Cover the frame behind the top rail

    Cut four panel offcuts of five slats long, trimming the slats of one to be 360mm long. Set them out along the support rail with the end cover pieces, securing with decking screws.

    Wooden rails attached to a slatted wood panel.
  8. 8

    Sand, prime and paint the exterior

    Sand over the screws with 120-grit abrasive paper, apply exterior filler, leave to dry and then sand the excess. Apply oil-based primer all over, painting the stiles between the slats with an angled brush. Finish with a mini roller, dragging it along the gaps between the slats. Apply two coats of exterior paint, leaving to dry after each coat.

    Person painting a slatted wooden panel white with a mini paint roller.
  9. 9

    Install the lid and doors

    Attach the lid to the top rail, with hinges eight slats in from the ends and at the centre. On the doors, position a hinge five slats from either end, using it as a template to pre-drill with a 3mm bit, securing with the supplied screws.

    Green Bunnings hammer
    Tip: Use spacers to hold the doors off the ground while pre-drilling and screwing into the frame.
    Person drilling a hinge to attach painted wooden panels.
  10. 10

    Attach the hooks and catches

    Install hooks on the doors, two slats down, 15mm in, pre-drilling with a 2.5mm bit and securing. Centre the catches on the frame, checking that the hook fits, then mark the holes, pre-drill and secure. Attach strut brackets under the lid and inside the box, pre-drilling to secure with the supplied screws, then install the struts.

    Person drilling metal hooks onto a painted wooden panel.
  11. 11

    Keep in mind…

    • Work in a well-ventilated area and wear a mask when cutting and sanding timber.
    • Choose materials specifically for outside areas, including termite- and rot-resistant H3-treated pine, stainless steel or galvanised fasteners and door hardware, plus exterior paint.
    • Pre-drill all screw holes using a 5mm bit for 14G batten screws, 3mm bit for 8G and supplied hinge screws, and 2.5mm for the cabin hook screws.
    • Timbers vary by state and territory; contact your local store for further information.
    • Paint colours may vary on application.
  12. 12

    For more D.I.Y. project inspiration…

    Check out our D.I.Y. advice page.


    Photo Credit: Natasha Dickins

Logo - Workshop - Bunnings Branded - Transparent
Icon - Website - Workshop lightbulbGet InspiredQuestionsAsk QuestionsSpeech bubblesShare Projects
Bunnings Workshop is an online community for D.I.Y. and gardening discussion. Get your questions answered at workshop.bunnings.com.au
link-outJoin the discussion

Get inspired by projects from the Bunnings Workshop community

Health & Safety

Asbestos, lead-based paints and copper chromium arsenic (CCA) treated timber are health hazards you need to look out for when renovating older homes. These substances can easily be disturbed when renovating and exposure to them can cause a range of life-threatening diseases and conditions including cancer. For information on the dangers of asbestos, lead-based paint and CCA treated timber and tips for dealing with these materials contact your local council's Environmental Health Officer or visit our Health & Safety page.

When following our advice in our D.I.Y. videos, make sure you use all equipment, including PPE, safely by following the manufacturer’s instructions. Check that the equipment is suitable for the task and that PPE fits properly. If you are unsure, hire an expert to do the job or talk to a Bunnings Team Member.