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A bench seat is incredibly versatile. It can act as outdoor seating, and it can also double as additional storage, the perfect place to tuck away things like outdoor cushions, toys, sports or gardening equipment, or shoes and boots.
We’re sharing step-by-step instructions on how to make your own outdoor storage bench seat.
Safety tip: Always wear the appropriate safety equipment (safety glasses, ear muffs, gloves and mask, for example) and always follow the instructions for the product or equipment.
First, work out the dimensions for your bench seat. Examine your outdoor space and decide where you want the seat to be – along the wall close to the front door? Next to the barbecue? Somewhere it can form extra seating for an outdoor dining table?
From there you can measure out the exact dimensions that will work in the space.
Once the dimensions are decided and you’ve measured up, build the frame to the height you want, making an allowance for the seat and any cushions you plan to add.
To build the frame, start by cutting your studs to size. The studs are the vertical pieces, so make sure that you deduct the thickness of the (horizontal) wall plates.
Nail the studs and wall plates together with a nail gun. This will keep the frame loosely together while you make final adjustments. Next, grab a builder’s square to check that the corners are all square; once you’re happy, screw the frame securely together.
Screw a sheet of marine ply to the bottom of the frame to keep it all together and stop rain, dust, and unwelcome critters from getting inside. Line the insides with marine ply, as well, including the top of the frame.
Next, measure the cladding and cut it to size.
Secure the cladding. Pre-drill the cladding using a countersink drill bit and fasten it on with an outdoor-rated 50mm screw. You will also need to apply a 3mm bead of sealant adhesive where the cladding joins to seal it up.
Cover up the inside edges with ply. Start by measuring the ply to fit the edges of the bench seat and then cut it to size. You can then attach the ply, making sure that it all lines up before screwing it in.
For a neat finish, glue and screw pieces of aluminium angle onto the exposed edges of the cladding. First, measure the length of each side and cut the aluminium using a hand saw. Then apply some high tack adhesive to the angle, set it into place and secure it with a screw on the top and bottom.
Once the trim has been attached, you can start building and attaching the lid or seat. Measure the size of your lid and then cut it. Be sure to leave approximately 20mm overhang for the front so that you can easily open the lid.
Fill the holes using a builder’s bog. Once this has dried, sand it down so that it is smooth. Now you can paint the seat base in whatever colour you like!
Attach the lid to the seat base. Measure the distance between each of the hinges to make sure they are spaced evenly. Mark the spots with a pencil where you want them, and then pre-drill so that you don’t split the wood. Drill the hinges into place and attach the lid.
Installing the stays is the last step. Drill the stays on the inside of the lid and the box. You can adjust these based on to how far you’d like the lid of the seat to open.
Asbestos, lead-based paints and copper chromium arsenic (CCA) treated timber are health hazards you need to look out for when renovating older homes. These substances can easily be disturbed when renovating and exposure to them can cause a range of life-threatening diseases and conditions including cancer. For information on the dangers of asbestos, lead-based paint and CCA treated timber and tips for dealing with these materials contact your local council's Environmental Health Officer or visit our Health & Safety page.
When following our advice in our D.I.Y. videos, make sure you use all equipment, including PPE, safely by following the manufacturer’s instructions. Check that the equipment is suitable for the task and that PPE fits properly. If you are unsure, hire an expert to do the job or talk to a Bunnings Team Member.
