Project Overview

A good solid workbench is a great place to start any D.I.Y. project. This guide shows you how to build your own portable workbench that’s strong and has plenty of storage space. To make the job even easier, you can get your timber cut to size at your local Bunnings. Continue to step-by-step instructions
How to hammer a nail straight
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How to hammer a nail straight

If your nails keep bending when you are hammering, check the head of your hammer. It could be that the face has picked up some dirt. This causes the hammerhead to slip slightly when it hits the nail. To solve this, give the head a clean by rubbing it on some sandpaper or a bit of rough concrete.

Step by Step Instructions

1 Cut the timber
2 Measure and attach the cross braces and ends
3 Make the ends sit flush on your workbench legs
4 Putting the workbench together
5 Attach the wheels
6 Attach the bottom shelf
7 Attach the ends to your workbench
8 Attach the top of your workbench
  • Step 1. Cut the timber

    You can make this project easier and get all of the timber pre-cut at your local Bunnings. Here’s our cut list:

     Cut the 70mm x 45mm treated pine to the following lengths:

    • 600mm x 8 (side supports)
    • 510mm x 8 (ends and table support)
    • 1800mm x 4 (front and back of the table)
    • 780mm x 4 (left and right legs)

     Cut the 17mm plywood to:

    • 600mm x 1700mm x 1
    • 600mm x 600mm x 2

     Cut the 25mm plywood to:

    • 2250mm x 1080mm x 1
  • Step 2. Measure and attach the cross braces and ends

    Lay the two pieces of timber on the floor for the frame of the top of your workbench. Use a pencil and square to mark on both pieces where you will attach the cross braces. Make sure the marks for the braces are evenly spaced. Next, pre-drill the holes for the cross brace, this will stop the timber from splitting. Line up the timber for the cross braces and ends where they will be attached to the frames. Use the cordless drill and outdoor screws to put the frame together. Repeat this process to build the bottom frame.

  • Step 3. Make the ends sit flush on your workbench legs

    There’s a simple way to make sure the plywood at the end of your workbench is flush. Before you build the legs use the combination square to measure the thickness of the plywood that will go on the ends. Mark this distance on the edge of both pieces of timber. Use the cordless drill to fix the cross braces for your legs on this line. Repeat this process for the other end of the workbench.

  • Step 4. Putting the workbench together

    Once your two sides and ends for the workbench are made, it’s time to put it all together. Insert the side frame into an end and screw the two together. Repeat this process until the ends and sides are securely joined and your workbench frame is solid.

  • Step 5. Attach the wheels

    Attaching wheels means you can take your workbench wherever you want. Use the cordless drill and screws to attach the wheels to each corner of your workbench. You might want to consider using lockable wheels so the bench doesn’t move when you’re using it.

  • Step 6. Attach the bottom shelf

    A shelf is a handy place to store your tools and equipment. To attach it, turn the workbench over so that it’s on its wheels. Place the plywood shelf onto the bottom frame, you may need someone to help you with this. Use the cordless drill to secure it to the frame. 

  • Step 7. Attach the ends to your workbench

    Adding timber ends to your workbench will give it a really professional look. To attach them, put them into the recesses at the end of the bench and use the cordless drill and screws to secure them in each corner.

  • Step 8. Attach the top of your workbench

    Have someone help you to lift the plywood top onto your workbench. Line it up so that it’s square and has an even overhang on all sides. Use the cordless drill and screws to secure the top to the frame. Now you’ve finished your workbench, you can now decide whether you want to paint or stain it. 

Tools and Materials


  • Circular saw
  • Cordless drill
  • Drill bits
  • Jigsaw
  • Measuring tape
  • Sawhorses
  • Set square
  • Pencil


  • 2400mm x 1200mm x 17mm structural plywood
  • 2400 x 1200 x 25mm plywood
  • 70mm x 45mm x 3.6m treated pine x 2
  • 70mm x 45mm x 2.4m treated pine x 6
  • Caster wheels x 4
  • 8g 31mm screws
  • Heavy duty liquid nails
  • 76mm screws x 4

More D.I.Y. Advice

Health & Safety

Please make sure you use all equipment appropriately and safely when following the advice in these D.I.Y. videos. You need to be familiar with how to use equipment safely and follow the instructions that came with the equipment. If you are unsure, you may feel it is safest to consult an expert, such as the manufacturer or an expert Bunnings Team Member.

Grave health hazards are linked to asbestos, which may be in homes built up to 1990. Health hazards may result from exposure to lead-based paints in older materials and copper chromium arsenic (CCA) treated timber. For information on the dangers of asbestos, lead-based paint and CCA treated timber and tips for dealing with these materials contact your local council's Environmental Health Officer or visit our Health & Safety page. You can also use a simple test kit from Bunnings to indicate the presence of lead-based paint.
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