Project Overview

Keep your firewood handy with this stylish copper storage rack. It’s easy to build and portable, making it easier to take outside and re-stack with wood.

Continue to step-by-step instructions
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Step by Step Instructions

1 Cut the copper and timber
2 Lay out the base of the frame
3 Crimp or glue the base frame
4 Insert the uprights
5 Complete the frame
6 Polish the frame
7 Measure, mark and cut the formply base
8 Cut the ply for the castors
9 Attach the ply to the frame
10 Attach the castors to the base
11 A stylish and functional firewood rack
  • Step 1. Cut the copper and timber

    Measure, mark and cut the copper for the rack’s frame. Use the first cut length as a template for any multiple cuts. When you are measuring and marking, use a square to ensure the ends are flush. To cut the pipes, use a pipe cutter, which makes nice clean cuts without any burrs.

    The cutting list for the 20mm copper pipe is:

    • 530mm x 3 (top and bottom cross bars)
    • 520mm x 4 (uprights)
    • 135mm x 4 (top joining lengths)
    • 220mm x 2 (base joining lengths)
    • 20mm x 4 (base joining lengths)

    Cut the 18mm plywood to the following length:

    • 575mm x 310mm
  • Step 2. Lay out the base of the frame

    Once you have all the pipe cut to length, it’s time to lay out the framework for your base frame, and join it together. Take a 220mm length of pipe and attach a T-joint, then a 25mm piece and add an elbow to each end to make one short end. To each of the T-joints attach a 530mm piece of pipe, making the two bottom crossbars. Repeat this to complete the base, using a 220mm length, a T-joint, a 25mm length, then an elbow.

  • Step 3. Crimp or glue the base frame

    Once the pipes for the base frame are assembled, crimp them together with the crimping tool. If you don’t have a crimping tool you can use glue instead. Before crimping together, make sure that the elbows on the ends are facing downward toward the workbench. Put the crimping tool over the join and squeeze the arms together to seal the pipe.

  • Step 4. Insert the uprights

    Once the base is crimped into place, attach the four 520mm uprights. These are connected to the elbows on the base. Crimp the ends of the pipe to secure the uprights.

  • Step 5. Complete the frame

    Once the uprights are in place, attach an elbow to each side – these face parallel to the base. Then attach a 135mm copper joining piece to the elbow, a T-joint to hold the cross support and another 135mm joining piece, which should then attach to the other elbow on the upright. Repeat the process to make the other side. Then attach the cross beam to the T-joint. Crimp (or glue) all the joins together.

  • Step 6. Polish the frame

    Once the frame is complete, use the metal cleaner and a rag to polish it.

  • Step 7. Measure, mark and cut the formply base

    Measure the length and the width of the base on the inside of the rack. Ours measured 575mm x 310mm, but make yours according to the size of the rack. Use the straight edge clamp and circular saw to cut the base. Once you’ve cut the base sand it with 120 grit sandpaper to remove the painted edges. 

  • Step 8. Cut the ply for the castors

    Use the formply offcuts to cut some blocks to screw the castors to, so they have room to swivel beneath the frame. Ours measured 95mm x 210mm x 19mm, but make yours to a size that suits.

  • Step 9. Attach the ply to the frame

    Use saddle clips and 15mm screws to attach the formply base to the frame.

  • Step 10. Attach the castors to the base

    Mark where the screw holes will be on the formply for the castors. Pre-drill the holes with a 3mm bit through the ply and into the base. Use 35mm screws to secure the castors and the ply. You can now polish the frame again if you like.

  • Step 11. A stylish and functional firewood rack

    And there you have it, a great looking copper firewood rack. Load it up with wood and keep toasty warm on cold winter nights.

Tools and Materials

Tools

  • 20mm copper pipe cutter
  • Combination square
  • Cordless drill
  • Impact driver
  • 3mm drill bit
  • Philips head screwdriver bit
  • Circular saw
  • Crimping tool
  • Dust mask
  • Earmuffs
  • Measuring tape
  • Orbital sander
  • Pencil
  • Safety glasses
  • Straight edge clamp
  • Work gloves

Materials

  • 1.2m x 596mm x 18mm plywood
  • .5” x 0.91mm x 1.5m copper pipe x5
  • 55mm casters x4
  • 20mm elbow joints x8
  • 18mm saddle clips x4
  • 35mm screws
  • 20mm T-joints x6
  • 6-8g 15mm timber screws x8
  • Glue
  • Metal polish
  • Rags
  • 120 grit sandpaper
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Health & Safety

Please make sure you use all equipment appropriately and safely when following the advice in these D.I.Y. videos. You need to be familiar with how to use equipment safely and follow the instructions that came with the equipment. If you are unsure, you may feel it is safest to consult an expert, such as the manufacturer or an expert Bunnings Team Member.

Grave health hazards are linked to asbestos, which may be in homes built up to 1990. Health hazards may result from exposure to lead-based paints in older materials and copper chromium arsenic (CCA) treated timber. For information on the dangers of asbestos, lead-based paint and CCA treated timber and tips for dealing with these materials contact your local council's Environmental Health Officer or visit our Health & Safety page. You can also use a simple test kit from Bunnings to indicate the presence of lead-based paint.
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