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Measure the width of the wardrobe units with your tape measure. Then measure out from each corner and transfer these measurements onto the skirting board.
Use the multi-tool to cut the skirting board where you marked it. Use a hammer and crowbar to lever the skirting board off the wall. After removing the skirting board, use the claw on the back of the hammer to remove any nails. Repeat this process where the other wardrobe unit will be fitted. Place the wardrobe units so they are flush against the wall.
Measure the width of the wardrobe. Transfer this measurement onto the melamine shelf. To protect the melamine, place a piece of masking tape across the shelf where you need to cut. Use the set square to draw a straight line for the cut. Cut the shelf with the circular saw.
Measure from the base to the top of the tallest wardrobe unit. Transfer that measurement onto the opposite wall. Draw a straight line using the spirit level and pencil. Measure the depth of the wardrobe. Transfer that length onto the piece of timber and cut it to make the cleat.
Use a stud finder to locate the studs on the wall where you need to attach the cleat. Mark where they are with a pencil. Pre-drill holes in the wood where the studs are. Use the cordless drill and screws to attach the cleat to the wall.
Measure the distance between the edge of the attached cleat and the wardrobe unit. Transfer this length to the timber. Use a set square to mark straight lines on the wood. Cut the wood with the circular saw.
Use the stud finder to locate where the studs are. Mark the corresponding locations on the piece of timber and pre-drill the holes into the timber. Use the cordless drill and screws to attach the cleat to the wall. Use the spirit level to make sure it's straight.
Lay the shelf on top of the wardrobe unit and the cleats. Use the cordless drill and screws to secure the shelf to the wardrobe unit. Do this in several locations to stop the shelf from moving.
Measure the distance between the wardrobe unit and the cleat. Then deduct 10mm from this distance and mark this length on the hanging rod. The 10mm takes into account the size of the end rail caps.
Wrap masking tape around the line where you need to cut to make the line easier to see. Position the pipe cutter on the rod and twist the knob at the bottom a quarter-turn to tighten it. Rotate the cutter around the pipe once and then tighten the knob another quarter-turn. Repeat this until the pipe is cut.
At both ends of the shelf, measure its width and mark the middle. This is where the brackets for the rails will be attached. Use the cordless drill and screws to attach the first bracket. Insert the rod into the bracket. Insert the other bracket into the other end of the road. Use the cordless drill and screws to attach the second bracket.
Asbestos, lead-based paints and copper chromium arsenic (CCA) treated timber are health hazards you need to look out for when renovating older homes. These substances can easily be disturbed when renovating and exposure to them can cause a range of life-threatening diseases and conditions including cancer. For information on the dangers of asbestos, lead-based paint and CCA treated timber and tips for dealing with these materials contact your local council's Environmental Health Officer or visit our Health & Safety page.
When following our advice in our D.I.Y. videos, make sure you use all equipment, including PPE, safely by following the manufacturer’s instructions. Check that the equipment is suitable for the task and that PPE fits properly. If you are unsure, hire an expert to do the job or talk to a Bunnings Team Member.
