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Measure, mark and cut the copper for the rack's frame. Use the first cut length as a template for any multiple cuts. When you are measuring and marking, use a square to ensure the ends are flush. To cut the pipes, use a pipe cutter, which makes nice clean cuts without any burrs.
The cutting list for the 20mm copper pipe is:
Cut the 18mm plywood to the following length:
Once you have all the pipe cut to length, it's time to lay out the framework for your base frame, and join it together. Take a 220mm length of pipe and attach a T-joint, then a 25mm piece and add an elbow to each end to make one short end. To each of the T-joints attach a 530mm piece of pipe, making the two bottom crossbars. Repeat this to complete the base, using a 220mm length, a T-joint, a 25mm length, then an elbow.
Once the pipes for the base frame are assembled, crimp them together with the crimping tool. If you don't have a crimping tool you can use glue instead. Before crimping together, make sure that the elbows on the ends are facing downward toward the workbench. Put the crimping tool over the join and squeeze the arms together to seal the pipe.
Once the base is crimped into place, attach the four 520mm uprights. These are connected to the elbows on the base. Crimp the ends of the pipe to secure the uprights.
Once the uprights are in place, attach an elbow to each side – these face parallel to the base. Then attach a 135mm copper joining piece to the elbow, a T-joint to hold the cross support and another 135mm joining piece, which should then attach to the other elbow on the upright. Repeat the process to make the other side. Then attach the cross beam to the T-joint. Crimp (or glue) all the joins together.
Once the frame is complete, use the metal cleaner and a rag to polish it.
Measure the length and the width of the base on the inside of the rack. Ours measured 575mm x 310mm, but make yours according to the size of the rack. Use the straight edge clamp and circular saw to cut the base. Once you've cut the base sand it with 120 grit sandpaper to remove the painted edges.
Use the formply offcuts to cut some blocks to screw the castors to, so they have room to swivel beneath the frame. Ours measured 95mm x 210mm x 19mm, but make yours to a size that suits.
Use saddle clips and 15mm screws to attach the formply base to the frame.
Mark where the screw holes will be on the formply for the castors. Pre-drill the holes with a 3mm bit through the ply and into the base. Use 35mm screws to secure the castors and the ply. You can now polish the frame again if you like.
Asbestos, lead-based paints and copper chromium arsenic (CCA) treated timber are health hazards you need to look out for when renovating older homes. These substances can easily be disturbed when renovating and exposure to them can cause a range of life-threatening diseases and conditions including cancer. For information on the dangers of asbestos, lead-based paint and CCA treated timber and tips for dealing with these materials contact your local council's Environmental Health Officer or visit our Health & Safety page.
When following our advice in our D.I.Y. videos, make sure you use all equipment, including PPE, safely by following the manufacturer’s instructions. Check that the equipment is suitable for the task and that PPE fits properly. If you are unsure, hire an expert to do the job or talk to a Bunnings Team Member.
