D.I.Y. trestle desk

To make this project easier, you can have your timber pre-cut to size at your local Bunnings. Here's our cut list:

64mm x 19mm Radiata pine DAR

• 670mm x 8 (legs)
• 205mm x 4 (base of the legs)
• 390mm x 2 (supports)

600mm x 26mm x 1800mm hardwood utility panel

• 450mm x 1200mm

To make sure that the four legs are identical for measuring and cutting, tape two batches of four legs together making sure the ends are flush.

Set the mitre saw to 5 degrees. Then mitre cut each batch of four legs close to the end.

Once the first end is mitred, measure and mark the other end of each batch for the second cut.  

With the mitre still set to 5 degrees, cut the batches of legs to length.

Tape the two pieces of 390mm timber for the supports together, making sure the ends are flush.

Set the mitre to 90 degrees and cut at one end of the supports for the trestle.

Tape two batches of two 205mm timber lengths for the leg bases together.

With the mitre saw set to 90 degrees, cut the ends of the base lengths to size. Remove all of the tape from the timber.

Lay out the trestle legs on the workbench to create two triangles.

With the 3mm drill bit, pre-drill all of the holes you need to attach the legs together.

Apply PVA glue to all of the joins where the legs will be secured and stick the timber together.

Use 40mm chipboard screws to join the leg together. The 390mm piece at the top is a support to attach to another leg, as well as attaching the trestle legs to the table top. 

Once both legs are made, attach the pair together. Start by pre-drilling holes with the 3mm drill bit on each side.

Use 40mm chipboard screws to attach the top of the legs. Once you've assembled two legs into a trestle side, then make another two legs for the other side of the trestle that forms the base of the desk.

You can paint your legs any colour you like; we're spray painting ours black. When painting always work in a well ventilated room and wear a mask. Use smooth, even, strokes for good coverage with a spray can. Apply as many coats as necessary, making sure you leave it to dry between coats. You can also give it a light sand with 240-grit sandpaper between coats.

Before you attach it to the legs, give the hardwood timber top a light sanding with an orbital sander and 240-grit sandpaper for a smooth finish.

Next you need to measure and mark for where the trestle legs will go underneath the tabletop. We positioned ours 110mm from the top of the trestle support with a 30mm overhang on each side.

Start by pre-drilling holes for the legs using a 3mm bit. Then secure both trestle legs to the tabletop with 30mm screws.

To strengthen the table, you'll need to use galvanised rods for bracing. Hold the galvanised rods diagonally under the table connecting the legs to determine the length you need. We placed ours 80mm from the bottom of the legs on both sides, and 50mm from the top on both sides. Then cut both rods to length with the bolt cutters.

Before you attach them, give the rods a coat of paint to match the colour of your desk's legs. Let the paint dry before attaching them.

Pre-drill the holes for the rods on an angle using a 6.5mm drill bit.

Thread each diagonal rod through the holes you've made and secure it by tightening the nuts. It doesn't matter if there's a little overhang on the diagonal rods.

Now the desk is complete, wax it to protect the surface and bring out the natural grain of the timber. It's a good idea to apply several coats, letting each layer of wax soak in before applying the next.