Project Overview

The industrial look is inspired by factory materials such as concrete and timber. Whether it’s for inside or outside your home, furniture made from concrete and timber can look great in any modern setting. You’d be surprised how easy it is to make this wooden and concrete kitchen island from just a few simple tools and materials. 

Continue to step-by-step instructions
steel wool
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Step by Step Instructions

1 Cut the timber to size
2 Measure and mark the concrete mould
3 Cut the form ply
4 Build the concrete mould
5 Insert the tri-quad
6 Spray the concrete mould
7 Reinforce the concrete mould
8 Reinforce the corners
9 Mix the concrete
10 Shovel the concrete into the mould
11 Measure, mark and cut the frame
12 Lay out the frame
13 Make the legs
14 Finish the legs
15 Attach the legs to the frame
16 Lay out the frame for the shelf
17 Join the shelf frame together
18 Attach the shelf to the frame
19 Attach the slats
20 Finishing the concrete
21 Place the concrete top on the frame
22 Stain the timber
23 Time to dine
  • Step 1. Cut the timber to size

    To make this project easier, you can have your timber pre-cut to size at your local Bunnings. Here’s our cut list:

    90mm x 90mm merbau:

    • 845mm x 4 (legs)

    90mm x 19mm merbau:

    • 1130mm x 2 (with mitre cuts at both ends)
    • 545mm x 2 (with mitre cuts at both ends)
    • 905mm x 5 (for the shelf top boards) 

    70mm x 19mm merbau:

    • 505mm x 2 (for the ends)
    • 905mm x 2 (for the sides) 

    35mm x 70mm treated pine:

    • 505mm x 4
    • 465mm x 3
  • Step 2. Measure and mark the concrete mould

    Measure and mark the 19mm form ply panel to make the concrete mould. For the sides we measured two lengths of 1240mm x 75mm and two lengths of 640mm x 75mm. For the base of the mould, we measured out 1240mm x 600mm.

  • Step 3. Cut the form ply

    Start by making the rip cuts on the form ply with the circular saw. Then cut the ply to size with a drop saw. Note that the width of the form ply will be the same as the width of the concrete tabletop.

  • Step 4. Build the concrete mould

    Once the ply is cut, pre-drill with a countersink bit and then screw together the frame with 50mm timber screws.

  • Step 5. Insert the tri-quad

    To give the concrete slab a nicer finish, measure, mark and mitre cut the tri-quad trim to fit the internal corners.  Fix it into place with a nail gun. You can also place tri-quad vertically in each corner to remove any sharp edges. Then trim the tri-quad in each corner to size with a hacksaw.

  • Step 6. Spray the concrete mould

    Wipe away any dust from the mould. Then to prevent the concrete sticking to the mould, give the frame and base a spray with silicon spray. 

  • Step 7. Reinforce the concrete mould

    To make sure the concrete stays strong, you will need to use reinforcing mesh. Measure, mark and cut the reinforcing bar with bolt cutters to fit into your concrete form. When putting the mesh in the frame make sure it is centralised in depth, length and width.  You can use a timber block to help you hold the mesh in place, but it will need to be removed before the concrete sets. 

  • Step 8. Reinforce the corners

    Place 450mm reo bars diagonally across each corner. Then tie the reinforcing mesh to these with the reo wire to help suspend it during the pour. Make sure the mould is level before you start. 

  • Step 9. Mix the concrete

    To make the concrete slab we used four bags of ready-mix concrete and half a bag of ready-mix cement. We also added BondCrete for added strength. To mix it, we used a concrete mixer, but you could also mix it in a wheelbarrow.  Add water slowly until you have a thickish slurry.

  • Step 10. Shovel the concrete into the mould

    Once the concrete is ready, shovel it into the mould. If the concrete looks too firm and isn’t spreading like pancake mixture, add some water and keep mixing. Level it off and use a trowel to remove any air bubbles along the side of the concrete. Tapping the sides of the frame with a rubber mallet can help with this. Leave the concrete to settle.

  • Step 11. Measure, mark and cut the frame

    While the concrete is drying, you can build the wooden frame. Take the two pieces of 1130mm timber for the sides and two pieces of 545mm timber for the ends. Set the mitre saw to 45 degrees and cut one mitre on each length, then measure, mark and make the second cut on the other end of each length. 

  • Step 12. Lay out the frame

    Lay out the frame, making sure the mitre joins are perfectly aligned, then join it together with the fixing gun. Add two of the treated 35mm x 70mm pine supports to the frame for extra stability.  To secure, pre-drill using the combination drill and 4.5mm countersink bit before screwing the frame together. Use two 50mm timber screws in each treated pine support.

  • Step 13. Make the legs

    Lay out four lengths of merbau for the legs and use a 505mm pine support as a brace at the top. Then measure and mark further down the leg to attach the other 505mm pine length for the shelf on the inside of the legs. You can place the shelf wherever you like, but ours measured 300mm up from the base.

  • Step 14. Finish the legs

    To make sure the shelf is positioned evenly on the legs, use a merbau offcut as a 70mm spacer. When the leg frame is square, countersink with 4.5mm bit, drill pilot holes and then screw into place with 75mm bugle screws. Repeat this process for the other set of legs. 

  • Step 15. Attach the legs to the frame

    Position the legs inside the frame and make sure they are square. Then countersink, pre-drill and fix the legs to the frame with the 4.5mm countersink bit, 5mm drill bit and 50mm bugle screws. You should use two screws on each side of the legs to secure.

  • Step 16. Lay out the frame for the shelf

    Next you’ll need to lay out the timber for the rectangular shelf frame.  Use two merbau side pieces and attach three treated pine supports, two at the ends and another in the centre. Just make sure you allow 70mm for the outer merbau shelf.

  • Step 17. Join the shelf frame together

    Attach the shelf frame together by countersinking, making a pilot hole with the 4mm drill bit before screwing into place with 50mm decking screws.

  • Step 18. Attach the shelf to the frame

    Once the shelf frame is made, fit it into place. To make it easier, turn the island frame onto its side the screw the shelf to the legs with some 50mm decking screws.

  • Step 19. Attach the slats

    Once the shelf frame is fixed into position, fix the shelf slats into place. Pin the first slat into place with the fixing gun, then use a 12mm spacer to evenly space the rest. You’ll need to countersink, pre-drill and screw into place with 50mm decking screws. You should use two screws for each slat into the centre of each support.

  • Step 20. Finishing the concrete

    Once the concrete has settled, you’ll need to cut the wire and remove the reo bars. Next you’ll need to screed the slab to remove any excess concrete and ensure the surface is smooth. This will be the underside of the table so it needs to be flat. Use the edging tool around the edges and then trowel the slab. Let the concrete set.

  • Step 21. Place the concrete top on the frame

    Remove the concrete from the mould by undoing the screws that hold the form ply mould together. Then you’ll need some friends to help you flip the concrete benchtop onto the timber frame. Give it a light sand to remove any sharp edges, or for a more polished finish, you can use a grinder. 

  • Step 22. Stain the timber

    To finish off the island bench you can paint, varnish or stain it. We used a natural stain to protect the timber and bring out the natural grain. Apply as many coats as necessary.

  • Step 23. Time to dine

    You’ll also need some help to put your wooden and concrete island bench in place once you’re finished. Whether it goes indoors or outdoors it’s going to look fantastic and come in very handy when you’re entertaining family and friends.

Tools and Materials


  • Angle grinder
  • Bolt cutters
  • Caulking gun
  • Clamps
  • Compound mitre saw
  • Combined 4.5mm drill and countersink bit
  • Cordless drill
  • 4mm, 4.5mm and 5mm drill bits
  • 3mm bugle square head bit
  • Crimper
  • Dust mask
  • Earmuffs
  • Edging trowel
  • Fixing gun and brads
  • Garden shovel
  • Gloves
  • Hose
  • Impact driver
  • Measuring tape
  • Pencil
  • Plastic buckets
  • Pliers
  • Rags
  • Rubber mallet
  • Safety glasses
  • Screed
  • T-square
  • Wheelbarrow


  • 1800mm x 150mm x 5mm steel reinforcing mesh
  • 2400mm x 1200mm x 19mm form ply panel
  • 90mm x 90mm x 2.4m Merbau x2
  • 90mm x 20mm x 8.5m Merbau
  • 70mm x 20mm x 3m Merbau
  • 70mm x 35mm x 2.4m Merbau
  • 70mm x 35mm x 1.5m treated pine
  • 45mm and 75mm bugle screws
  • 50mm decking screws
  • Metal rods x 4
  • Concrete
  • Concrete bond
  • Discs and cups
  • Dry lubricant
  • PVA or wood glue
  • Tri-quad trim
  • 120 grit and 240 grit sandpaper
  • Silicon cartridges
  • Thin wire
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Health & Safety

Please make sure you use all equipment appropriately and safely when following the advice in these D.I.Y. videos. You need to be familiar with how to use equipment safely and follow the instructions that came with the equipment. If you are unsure, you may feel it is safest to consult an expert, such as the manufacturer or an expert Bunnings Team Member.

Grave health hazards are linked to asbestos, which may be in homes built up to 1990. Health hazards may result from exposure to lead-based paints in older materials and copper chromium arsenic (CCA) treated timber. For information on the dangers of asbestos, lead-based paint and CCA treated timber and tips for dealing with these materials contact your local council's Environmental Health Officer or visit our Health & Safety page. You can also use a simple test kit from Bunnings to indicate the presence of lead-based paint.
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