Bunnings magazine January-February 2020
Concrete-topped tables are a chic designer look. These pavers provide a smooth, perfectly round surface, making it easy to turn them into small side tables or plant stands. (While stable enough for use as tables, avoid using them as stools.)
We’ve used three pavers in different sizes to create a trio of tables. Natural-finish sealer is applied using a wet-on-wet application, which means applying three coats quickly before the surface dries. Once dry, it has a smooth feel and helps protect from marks and stains.
Tools and materials
Safety equipment
60- and 120-grit metal abrasive paper with sanding block
A roll of cloths
Water sprayer
Mini roller with tray
Measuring tape
Pencil
Protractor
400mm framing square and pen
Handsaw
Drill with driver bit
2mm and 6mm (1/4") drill bits
Caulking gun
Clamps (at least three for each table)
300mm, 370mm and 450mm round concrete pavers
Tile cleaner (we used Betta Tilecare tile & grout cleaner)
Sealer (we used Betta Tilecare natural look sealer)
18mm-thick plywood panel, about 600mm x 600mm
Nine 5/16" vertical leg plates
Three each of 150mm-, 230mm- and 400mm-long 44mm round furniture legs with affixed bolts (we used Leggz)
Nine self-adhesive 38mm plastic glides (we used Surface Gard)
Polyurethane adhesive sealant (we used Sika ‘Sikaflex’ 11FC in Grey)
180-grit abrasive paper
1. Smooth your pavers
Place the pavers upside down on a clean surface. Smooth around the edges with 60-grit metal abrasive paper. Place the pavers on timber offcuts to elevate them off the workbench, then smooth around the sides and tops with 120-grit metal abrasive paper.
2. Clean your pavers
Spray tile cleaner over the tops and sides, wipe with a cloth, then spray with water and remove residue with a clean cloth. Leave to dry.
3. Apply sealer
Apply sealer with a mini roller, leaving it to soak in for a few minutes, then apply a second coat before it dries. Repeat for a third coat, keeping the surfaces wet. Wipe around the base to remove drips, then leave to dry thoroughly.
4. Measure and cut ply
Referring to photo 4 above, mark 450mm from the bottom left corner of the plywood. Use a protractor to mark 60º at the corner and your mark, then use the square to draw a triangle of equal sides. Leaving a gap of 3mm between each, draw a 370mm triangle along the top edge, then a 300mm triangle. (Setting them out like this minimises the number of cuts.) Use a handsaw to cut triangles, following the order shown, working off the edge of a stable workbench.
Tip: Cut along the outside of the line as the 3mm gap allows for the width of the saw blade.
5. Add the leg plates
On the triangles, position leg plates 50mm from the corners, marking the holes and along the tips. Remove the corners with a handsaw, then drill the screw holes with a 2mm bit and the centre holes using a 6mm bit. Secure the leg plates with the supplied screws. Attach 150mm legs to the 300mm base, 230mm legs to the 370mm base, and 400mm legs to the 450mm base. Sand the legs with 180-grit paper and add self-adhesive glides to the bottom of each leg.
6. Glue base to paver top
Use a measuring tape to centre the bases on the corresponding pavers and mark around them. Apply adhesive, re-position the bases, clamp and leave to dry.
Handy tip: A standard 18mm-thick plywood sheet is 1200mm x 600mm, but since the table bases only require half, have it cut widthways in store so it’s easier to manage. The 18mm thickness allows for the length of the leg bolts and avoids having to drill into the concrete.
More project ideas
Check out some more great D.I.Y. projects for your home.
Photo credit: James Moffatt
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