D.I.Y. wooden coat rack

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D.I.Y. wooden coat rack

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Project Overview

This stylish wooden coat rack is the perfect place to hang your jackets, scarves and other items out of the way. It’s easy to make and its tree-like design is sure to impress in any room.

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Step by Step Instructions

1 Join the timber for the base
2 Join the timber for the stand
3 Remove the dried glue
4 Measure and mark the base
5 Cut the base
6 Mark out the centre of the base
7 Drill holes through the base
8 Measure and mark the stand
9 Cut the stand to size
10 Measure and mark for the dowel holes
11 Pre-drill the dowel holes
12 Drill the holes for the dowel
13 Fill in any cracks
14 Paint the stand
15 Pre-drill holes in the bottom of the stand
16 Attach the base to the stand
17 Measure and mark for the dowel
18 Cut the dowel
19 Sand the dowel
20 Assemble the coat rack
21 Place and dress your coat rack
  • Step 1. Join the timber for the base

    To create the base for your coat rack, apply glue along one of the long edges of the 270mm hardwood timber. Then join the two pieces together, making sure the end and corners are flush. Clamp them together and then let it dry.

  • Step 2. Join the timber for the stand

    Run some glue along the face of one of the 1800mm Tasmanian oak hardwood lengths. Then stick and clamp the two 1800mm lengths together, making sure the edges are flush.

  • Step 3. Remove the dried glue

    After the glue has dried on the stand and the base, use a wide, sharp chisel to remove any dried glue from the wood.

  • Step 4. Measure and mark the base

    Next you’ll need to square up the base. Measure and mark up making sure you keep the glued pieces in the centre of the base for a great look. Our base measured 280mm x 280mm.

  • Step 5. Cut the base

    Clamp the base to the workbench and use the circular saw to cut it where you’ve marked.

  • Step 6. Mark out the centre of the base

    To find the centre of the base that you’ve cut, use a T-square and pencil and make a mark. From that, draw a small square around the centre and mark an X in each corner of this square.

  • Step 7. Drill holes through the base

    Drill four holes where you’ve marked in the base with an X using a 5mm drill bit. This is where you will attach the base to the stand.

  • Step 8. Measure and mark the stand

    We want our stand to be 1755mm high. Measure and mark this length onto your glued timber stand.

  • Step 9. Cut the stand to size

    With your timber clamped down, trim the end of the stand with a drop saw to size.

  • Step 10. Measure and mark for the dowel holes

    For our stand, we wanted to create a tree look with three staggered dowel lengths on each face. From the top of each face, we marked at;

    Face 1: 50mm, 250mm, 450mm

    Face 2: 100mm, 200mm, 300mm

    Face 3: 150mm, 350mm, 550mm

    Face 4: 200mm, 400mm, 600mm

    Square off a line at each mark across the timber and then mark a 45-degree angle on the side.

  • Step 11. Pre-drill the dowel holes

    Pre-drill all of the holes for the dowel at the 45-degree angle with the 5mm drill bit. This will act as a guide for the spade bit.

  • Step 12. Drill the holes for the dowel

    Use the 35mm spade bit to drill the holes for the dowel. Start drilling at 90 degrees, then as the blade starts cutting at its full width, start to tilt the drill until you’re at 45 degrees. Drill the holes to a depth of around 50mm.

  • Step 13. Fill in any cracks

    Use rapid fill to fill in any cracks or imperfections on the stand. Let it dry then sand the stand back with the orbital sander.

  • Step 14. Paint the stand

    We painted our stand black to highlight the natural colour of the dowel, but you can choose whatever colour you like. Then let the paint dry.

  • Step 15. Pre-drill holes in the bottom of the stand

    Line the base up with the bottom of the stand so that it’s centred. Then with the 5mm drill bit, lightly drill through the holes you’ve made in the base into the bottom of the stand for your marker points. Remove the base and drill further into the stand to make your holes.

  • Step 16. Attach the base to the stand

    Insert the batten screws through the drilled holes in the base. Line the screws up with the pre-drilled holes in the stand and screw the base to the stand with 100mm batten screws.

  • Step 17. Measure and mark for the dowel

    For your coat hooks, measure and mark out on your dowel 4 x 300mm lengths, 4 x 200mm lengths and 4 x 100mm lengths.

  • Step 18. Cut the dowel

    Use the drop saw to cut the dowel where you’ve marked. Cut one end at 90 degrees and mitre the other end at 45 degrees.

  • Step 19. Sand the dowel

    Use 180 grit sandpaper to lightly sand the rough edges of each piece of dowel.

  • Step 20. Assemble the coat rack

    Apply PVA glue to the 90-degree ends of the dowel and insert them into the drilled holes. We’ve fitted the long dowels at the top and the shortest ones closer to the bottom to give it the tree design. 
  • Step 21. Place and dress your coat rack

    Find a location for your coat rack and you’re finished. Now it’s time to dress it with coats, scarves and clean up around your home. 

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Health & Safety

Please make sure you use all equipment appropriately and safely when following the advice in these D.I.Y. videos. You need to be familiar with how to use equipment safely and follow the instructions that came with the equipment. If you are unsure, you may feel it is safest to consult an expert, such as the manufacturer or an expert Bunnings Team Member.

Grave health hazards are linked to asbestos, which may be in homes built up to 1990. Health hazards may result from exposure to lead-based paints in older materials and copper chromium arsenic (CCA) treated timber. For information on the dangers of asbestos, lead-based paint and CCA treated timber and tips for dealing with these materials contact your local council's Environmental Health Officer or visit our Health & Safety page. You can also use a simple test kit from Bunnings to indicate the presence of lead-based paint Test.
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