Project Overview

Every kid’s bedroom needs a side table to hold books, toys and little treasures. A wooden pegboard side table will help you to clean up around their bed, it looks great and you’d be surprised how easy it is to make. We’ll show you the simple steps it takes to build one. 

Continue to step-by-step instructions
depth drill
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How to drill to a certain depth

If you want to match the length of a fixing or avoid drilling through to the other side, here’s an easy way to get the hole depth right every time. Take your fixing and line it up with your drill bit. Wrap masking tape around the bit to mark the length of the fixing. Then drill until your masking tape marker is flush with the surface.

Step by Step Instructions

1 Join the lengths of timber together
2 Remove the dried glue and sand
3 Measure and cut the timber
4 Connect the sides and the top together
5 Attach the base and final side
6 Cut the feet straight or at an angle
7 Drill the dowel
8 Measure and mark for the feet
9 Attach the feet
10 Measure and cut the door frame
11 Build the door frame
12 Attach the pegboard
13 Drill a hole in the pegboard
14 Attach the hinges
15 Attach the door to the box
16 Attach a magnetic catch
17 Apply the finishing touches
  • Step 1. Join the lengths of timber together

    Take the two lengths of 185mm x 19mm x 1500mm timber and lay them side-by-side on the workbench. Run a bead of high strength, multipurpose polyurethane glue along the edge. Join the two pieces together, making sure the edges are flush. Clamp the two pieces together at the ends and in the middle. Wipe off any excess glue and leave it to cure overnight.

  • Step 2. Remove the dried glue and sand

    Once the glue has dried, remove the clamps. Scrape off any excess glue in the joins with a chisel. Be careful not to scrape too deep and damage the timber. Then give the timber a sand for a smooth finish. Using an orbital sander, we started with a coarse 40 grit sandpaper then used 120 grit sandpaper with a sanding block. Always sand with the grain and wipe away any dust as you work.

  • Step 3. Measure and cut the timber

    You now need to cut the timber into five pieces to make the top, base, sides and back of the box for the table. To do this, clamp the wood to the workbench and cut the five pieces with the circular saw. Make sure you wear your safety gear when using the circular saw. Our measurements are:

    • 370mm x 370mm (for the top and base)
    • 370mm x 362mm (for the two side)s
    • 332mm x 362mm (for the back) 
  • Step 4. Connect the sides and the top together

    Put the two sides and the top together first with the grain of the timber on the outside of the box. Apply PVA glue to the edges and then clamp it to hold the timber together, making sure the edges are flush and square. Use the nail gun to fix the timber. 

  • Step 5. Attach the base and final side

    Once the two sides and top are fixed together, attach the base and final side in the same way. Apply glue to the edges, put them in place and use the nail gun to secure.
  • Step 6. Cut the feet straight or at an angle

    The feet for your side table can be cut flat or at a 15-degree angle. To make the angled feet, tape the 40mm dowel securely to a piece of timber to stop it moving when you’re cutting. Set the drop saw to 15 degrees. When cutting, use a timber guide to butt the dowel up hard against. This will ensure your table feet are cut to the same length every time.

  • Step 7. Drill the dowel

    Clamp the dowel legs you’ve cut to the workbench to secure it. Use the 5mm drill bit to drill a hole in the centre of each leg.

  • Step 8. Measure and mark for the feet

    Turn the table upside down. Hold a piece of timber flush against the box. Your angled legs should sit flush against this to ensure there is no overhang and mark their position. Then, with a set square, mark the centre for each leg, which is where you will drill.

  • Step 9. Attach the feet

    Pre-drill holes in the base of the box with a 7.5mm drill bit. Make sure you drill on an angle to match the angle of the feet. Partially screw the 100mm bugle screws through the base of the box. Attach the feet to the screws and tighten.

  • Step 10. Measure and cut the door frame

    To build the door, start by taking the outside measurements of the front of the box. For our side table, our measurements were 329mm x 359mm. Transfer these measurements onto your timber and cut the four pieces to length.

  • Step 11. Build the door frame

    Lay out the frame on the workbench. With glue, stick the frame together, clamp it and then fix it off with a nail gun. 

  • Step 12. Attach the pegboard

    We had our pegboard pre-cut to 329mm x 359mm at Bunnings. Apply glue around the door frame. Then place the pegboard on top, making sure it’s flush with the edges. Place a piece of scrap timber on top of the pegboard and clamp it down to secure it and then let it dry.

  • Step 13. Drill a hole in the pegboard

    Once the glue has dried, use a 32mm spade bit to drill a hole for the handle. You can place the handle wherever you like, but we put ours in the top corner. 

  • Step 14. Attach the hinges

    Stand the door on its side. Measure and mark where you want your hinges to go. Then use the drill and screws to fix the hinges to the door. 

  • Step 15. Attach the door to the box

    Turn the box on its side. With the door in place, use the drill and screws to attach the door hinges to the box.

  • Step 16. Attach a magnetic catch

    An easy way to make sure the pegboard door stays closed is to fit a magnetic catch. Simply screw the magnetic strike plates on the door and the table at either the top or the side.

  • Step 17. Apply the finishing touches

    To give your side table a great finish, fill in the screw holes with wood putty. Let the putty dry and sand it back with 200 grit or finer sandpaper, wiping away any dust. Then you can paint or stain the bedside table to suit your room and you’re finished.

Tools and Materials


  • Chisel
  • Circular saw
  • Clamps
  • Cordless drill
  • 5mm, 7.5mm and hex drill bits
  • 32mm spade bit
  • Dust mask
  • Earmuffs
  • Fixing gun
  • Hammer
  • Impact driver
  • Orbital sander
  • Pencil
  • Safety glasses
  • Sanding block
  • T-square


  • 40mm x 19mm x 450mm hardwood length x 2
  • 40mm x 19mm x 350mm hardwood length x 2
  • 185mm x 19mm x 1500mm timber length x 2
  • 185mm x 19mm x 310mm timber length
  • 329mm x 359mm pegboard
  • 50mm steel butt hinges x 2
  • 100mm bugle head timber screws
  • 12mm chipboard screws
  • Clear varnish
  • Disposable gloves
  • Dowel
  • Magnetic closer with wood screws
  • Nails for fixing gun
  • Polyurethane glue
  • Rags
  • 40 grit, 120 grit and 240 grit sandpaper

Health & Safety

Please make sure you use all equipment appropriately and safely when following the advice in these D.I.Y. videos. You need to be familiar with how to use equipment safely and follow the instructions that came with the equipment. If you are unsure, you may feel it is safest to consult an expert, such as the manufacturer or an expert Bunnings Team Member.

Grave health hazards are linked to asbestos, which may be in homes built up to 1990. Health hazards may result from exposure to lead-based paints in older materials and copper chromium arsenic (CCA) treated timber. For information on the dangers of asbestos, lead-based paint and CCA treated timber and tips for dealing with these materials contact your local council's Environmental Health Officer or visit our Health & Safety page. You can also use a simple test kit from Bunnings to indicate the presence of lead-based paint.
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