Project Overview

Replacing old or rusty guttering is an affordable way to keep your home looking good. It also helps make sure that rainwater is properly diverted away from your roof and into rainwater tanks or storm water runoff. This video shows you everything you need to know to do this job properly.

Continue to Step-by-step instructions.
Time Required

Done in a Day

Done in a Day

You'll need to set aside a day to comfortably complete this project

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Quick Tip

Ladders are important tools but they need to be used the right way. Falling off a ladder is responsible for more hospital visits than any other accident in the home. The safest way to use a ladder is to open the legs fully and lock the hinges in place. This ensures the ladder won’t collapse and makes it as stable as possible.

Step by Step Instructions

1 Get your tools ready
2 Remove the old guttering
3 Mount the new gutter brackets on to the fascia board
4 Install the gutter end brackets
5 Install the downpipe pop in the guttering
6 Install the new guttering on the fascia
  • Step 1. Get your tools ready

    There are a number of pieces of equipment you’ll need to replace a gutter. Because you’ll be spending a bit of time working on a ladder, it’s a good idea to get all your tools ready before you start. You don’t have to have leather gloves for this job, but roof tin can have sharp edges, so they’re worth considering.
  • Step 2. Remove the old guttering

    Use a pair of multigrips to bend back the guttering brackets holding the old guttering. Remove the downpipe by removing its brackets and disconnecting it from the guttering. Then roll the guttering off the brackets and remove it. Once the guttering is removed, use a wrecking bar to pry the old brackets off the fascia board.
  • Step 3. Mount the new gutter brackets on to the fascia board

    Measure the length of the wall. The guttering should tilt slightly down towards the downpipe. This is the gutter’s “Fall”. Building Code requires a fall of 1:500 for eaves guttering (please check your state's building codes). To get this fall right, install the high-end bracket at one end at the very top of the fascia. Then install the low-end bracket at the other end, dropping it 1cm from the top of the fascia for every 500cm of length the guttering travels. Once the high and low brackets are installed, run a string line between them and install the other brackets along the line. Brackets should be no more than 1200mm apart.

  • Step 4. Install the gutter end brackets

    Run a bead of silicone around the edge of the gutter’s end and slide the end bracket into place. Secure the bracket with four pop rivets  – one at the front, one at the back and two in the base. Dab a small amount of silicone onto the inside and outside of the rivets to make a final seal.
  • Step 5. Install the downpipe pop in the guttering

    Place the pop near the downhill end of the gutter. Mark where the tube of the pop will push through. Cut a hole in the gutter for the pop’s tube to fit through. Once your hole is cut out, silicone around the edge of the hole, fit the pop and rivet it in place.
  • Step 6. Install the new guttering on the fascia

    Pick the gutter up and roll it in over the brackets. Install the downhill end first, then work uphill – it minimises any chance of joins leaking. Once all the pieces of guttering are in place, roll the gutter brackets in to place and tighten them with a pair of multigrips.

Please make sure you use all equipment appropriately and safely when following the advice in these D.I.Y. videos. You need to be familiar with how to use equipment safely and follow the instructions which came with the equipment. If you are unsure, you may feel it is safest to consult an expert, such as the manufacturer or an expert Bunnings team member.

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