Painted surfaces in good condition:
If there’s no flaking, peeling or rust bulbing, wash down well with liquid sugar soap or powdered sugar soap. It removes dirt, mould, grease and smoke stains from all painted surfaces, concrete, tiles and laminated plastics.
Painted surfaces in poor condition:
You will need to strip the old paint off the surface before painting. Scrape away flakes and bubbles of old paint, then smooth edges with sandpaper. A wire brush can be used initially and then smoothed off with fine sandpaper. Badly deteriorated surfaces will need a chemical liquid paint stripper. This can be easily brushed on. Spray on strippers are faster and are easier for removing paint from hard to get at places such as corners and grooves. Both have the same powerful action that can usually strip two to three coats of old paint in 10 to 15 minutes.
No neutralising is needed. Do not use paint strippers on plastic. Sand metal surfaces lightly after stripping. If any rust is showing, wire brush well then treat with rust fixative. If the metal surface is new and rust free, wash down well with turps before using oil based primer.
Testing: To test the condition of an existing paint surface, press a finger length of strong adhesive tape firmly onto it then rip the tape away quickly. If the paint lifts you’ll need to strip the whole surface and re-prepare it or treat it with a surface binder.
Filling: This is the last step before painting. Cracks, holes and dents need to be filled to get an even surface. If there is any dampness on the surface, you must find the source and eliminate it before filling and painting.
Interior cracks and holes: Where no structural movement is expected, use interior filler on surfaces such as plaster or plasterboard. This can be sanded smooth and should be ready for painting in 2 to 3 hours. For small jobs use quick set interior filler. This is ready mixed, easy to sand and ready for painting in only 30 minutes. Areas treated with filler should be undercoated to ensure an even appearance of the top coat or finishing coat.
Interior Gaps: Where structural movement is likely to take place, such as around window frames, architraves or cornices, use a flexible filler which can be tooled off to a smooth finish with a spatula or slightly damp cloth. It can’t be sanded, so be sure you get a smooth finish before it skins and sets - about 15 minutes.
Interior timber fillers: Holes, dents or chips in natural timber can be filled with plastic wood or water-based timber filler. This is a fast setting filler which can be sanded smooth then treated in all respects as real wood by staining, varnishing or painting. Don’t use it in joints.
Exterior cracks and holes: On masonry, brick, stone, fibro and cement use an exterior filler. This resin reinforced filler gives excellent adhesion and weather resistance. It sets in about 1 hour, can be sanded smooth and should be under coated to ensure an even appearance of the top coat or finishing coat. For a sandy texture consistent with rendered surfaces use a cement filler. This can be sanded and painted within about 3 hours.
Exterior gaps: Where structural movement could be expected, such as between bricks, concrete, timber, fibro or even painted surfaces use a flexible filler. Flexible fillers will contract and expand with the gap without cracking. Smooth with a spatula or slightly damp cloth. Flexible fillers can’t be sanded, so be sure you get a smooth surface before it skins and sets - about 15 minutes. Once it has skinned it can be painted within 2 hours. Fillers are usually available in cartridge refills or tubes.
Exterior timber cracks: Timber fillers are available for filling holes, dents or chips (but not joints) in weatherboards and timber frames. They have a high adhesion and just the right flexibility for timber. It can be sanded when dry in about 6 hours and should be under coated to ensure an even appearance of the top or finishing coat.